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February 18, 2013

NY Fashion Week: tough, tailored, lots of black



NEW YORK (AP) — Influencers finish up New York Fashion Week on Thursday with a taste of what's to come next fall, their appetite whet by some tough, some tailored and many black looks. But there were flashes of bright colors and earth tones, too.

There were sleek minimalist shapes and some oversized, slouchy ones. For every bouncy miniskirt there was a ladylike pencil, and broad-shouldered military coats were offset by gently molded oversized ones.

What shoppers can take away from New York is the idea that the runway is a tool to present fanciful options, not to be used to dictate a specific look.

"This season is going to help the person out there who is trying to get dressed in the morning. You can wear anything, just do it with conviction and confidence," said Linda Wells, editor-in-chief of Allure magazine.

Marc Jacobs and fellow heavy hitters Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein by Francisco Costa closed out Fashion Week. Jacobs courted glamorous screen sirens who wore beaded PJs by day and lame gowns by night, lit in sepia for half the show in a cavernous armory.

Jacobs' collection is never for a shrinking violet, and the models owned their 1940s looks.

Lauren had a strong woman in mind with a mix of military looks and regal gowns, all with a hint of the Russian Revolution, while Costa had some razor-sharp menswear details.

"The trend, really, was the strength of women," Wells said.

Largely absent this season were the bohemian and disco-era 1960s and '70s that seemed to have a permanent place on the runways, said Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel for Nordstrom.

Instead, she saw those inspirations replaced with looser, sometimes exaggerated, silhouettes from the '80s and the restrained minimalism of the '90s. "But these looks didn't look dated," she said, "because there have been so many changes in fabrics and techniques."

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