"You either come in warm and comfortable clothes and boots or you come in neon — or sequins would be a good one — so they see you in the drift," he said.
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week wraps up Feb. 14, when the industry moves on to London, Milan and Paris.
Wu's collection was all woman. Not girlie. Not mannish. That was by design.
"I wanted to bring back the woman to the runway," he said backstage.
The clothes were full of strength, with exaggerated shoulders and some military touches, but chiffon pleats floated down the runway. Two outfits were long — as in floor-length — pleated, peplum tops over tuxedo pants, the perfect yin and yang.
Red that offset the mostly black-and-white combinations was the va-va-voom. Use of the color both here and on Michelle Obama's inaugural gown last month was not a coincidence. Wu started on the collection in October and the gown — for which he received plenty of congratulations and accolades — was designed in November.
"Certainly red was on my mind. ... I felt it was right for right now," he said.
RAG & BONE
Outside, there was sleet, snow and slush. But inside at the Rag & Bone show, one could find at least a temporary solution to the winter storm: Hot mulled wine to ease the chill, and some fun, colorful clothes.
Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville were interested in pops of bright color — like mineral green and grape — and in a more overtly masculine style. "We referenced men's silhouettes a lot more than usual this time," Wainwright said.
On the other hand, the collection was full of flirty quilted miniskirts, too, giving it a feminine accent along with the structured jackets and coats. A grape-colored crochet mini was a typically fun look, as was an orange bomber skirt paired with a long coat, also in grape.